Method of making shoes



1937. c. A. GREEN 2,098,142

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Dec. 16, 1953 2 Sheets-Sheet l C. A. GREEN METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Nov. 2, 1937.

Filed Dec. 16, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 W. ,6 W W a Patented Nov. 2, 1937 UNiT ED s'mrss PATENT OFFlE METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Application December 16, 1933, Serial No. 702,741

5 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in shoes and method of making the same, and consists in the novel construction and method of procedure hereinafter described.

The invention has particular reference to the structure and method of making the vamp portion of a shoe of the ornamental type, that is to say, of a perforated, cut-out or stitched construction.

An object of the invention is to provide a shoe comprising a full vamp, a vamp lining for the rear section of the vamp directly secured to the vamp with ornamental perforations or cut-outs in the rear section of the vamp and lining, with a separate vamp lining for the toe section of the shoe, between which a box toe member is interposed, the joint between the rear section and the toe section of the vamp lining being so constructed as to avoid any ridge or seam at the juncture of the two parts in the finished shoe.

Another object of the invention is to provide a method of constructing the vamp portion of a shoe by securing the rear section of the vamp to the vamp lining underlying said rear section of the vamp; then ornamenting said rear section of the vamp and vamp lining by cut-outs or perforations or ornamental stitching, if desired; then securing to the rear section of the vamp lining a toe piece in such a manner as to avoid any ridge or seam, and then interposing a box toe member between the toe section of the vamp and the toe lining.

Additional advantages of the construction will be apparent from the following detailed descrip tion thereof, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which- Fig. 1 illustrates the two sections of the vamp lining blank.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a vamp blank to the rear portion of which is secured the rear section of the vamp lining.

Fig. 3 is a vertical section on the line 3--3 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is a plan View having portions broken away showing the ornamented area comprising perforations and stitching extending through the rear section of the vamp blank and through the vamp lining, together with the toe piece of the vamp lining secured to the rear section of the vamp lining, and the box toe interposed between the toe portion of the vamp and vamp lining.

Fig. 5 is a section on the line 55 of Fig. 4:.

Fig. 6 is a plan view partially broken away of the completed vamp.

Fig. '7 is a View of the box toe insert, and,

Fig. 8 is a section on line 8-8 of Fig. 6.

In constructing a shoe vamp structure in accordance with the present invention, the vamp lining is formed in two members or sections. The rear member or section I is out to a contour substantially as shown in Fig. 1. It is preferably formed from a thin flexible piece of leather and is assembled usually with the grain side forming the inner lining surface of the shoe. The forward edge of the member I is beveled or skived with a relatively wide bevel 2 running the full width of the forward edge of the blank. The bevel is formed by skiving the grain surface of the margin of the blank along the forward edge. A toe member or section 3 is cut to a contour illustrated at the right of Fig. 1, and its rear edge is formed with a wide bevel 4 to match and overlap the bevel 2.

The vamp blank 5 is cut to the contour illustrated in Fig. 2 and, in the first step of the process, the lining member I is assembled with the vamp blank so that the two members are arranged in superposed relationship and securely cemented together, preferably by a quick-drying cement. This relationship of the parts is clearly shown in Fig. 3.

After the blanks I and 5 have thus been secured together, the structure is ornamented in any preferred manner by numerous series of cutouts or perforations 6 formed in pleasing and ornamental relationship through both blanks; and these series of ornamenting cut-outs or perforations are also formed through the blank 5 alone forwardly beyond the lining member I. In addition to providing ornamentations the cut-outs or perforations 6 that are formed through both members I and 5 constitute ventilating means.

After the members I and 5 have been adhesively attached and after the ornamenting and ventilating series of cut-outs or perforations 6 have been formed through both members I and 5 and through the member 5 beyond the forward end of the member I, a substantially inelastic textile member I is adhesively attached to the inner surface of the member 5 forwardly beyond the forward end of the lining member I closing at least some of the perforations 6 that were formed through the member 5 forwardly beyond the forward end of the lining member I. This memher I. prevents undesirable stretching and distortion of the forward portion of the vamp member 5 during subsequent operations.

Next, series of ornamenting rows of stitches 8 may be formed through the members I, 5, and I in any desired relationship to the ventilating and ornamenting cut-outs or perforations 6. The member I attached to the inner surface of the vamp member 5 forwardly beyond the lining member I holds the toe portion of said vamp member properly extended and thereby facilitates the formation of the stitches 8 through that portion of the vamp member 5 that extends beyond said lining member I. Without the member l in attached relationship to the vamp member 5 it would be necessary to exercise care in holding the toe portion of said vamp member properly extended and the formation of the stitches 8 through said vamp member 5 beyond the lining member I would be somewhat diflicult.

After the parts have been prepared and after the members I, 5, and I have been attached in the manner explained, the bevel 4 of the toe member or section 3 of the lining is coated with adhesive cement and placed with said bevel 4 overlapping the bevel 2 and thereby the members I and 3 are adhesively attached along the bevels 2 and 4. Of course, the bevel 2 may be coated with cement instead of the bevel 4 without departing from the invention. Thus, a joint or connection between the members I and 3 is obtained in such a way as to form no ridge or raised seam in the lining, because the inner or exposed surfaces of the members I and 3 are flush and in alinement. Since this joint is formed as stated and as shown in Fig. 8, there will be no ridge or raised seam on the inside face of the finished lining because of the presence of said joint.

After the member 3 of the lining has been thus attached, the box toe or stiffener member 9 is placed between the vamp and said lining member 3 and secured in position by cementing the parts together, thus completing the vamp structure for use in making the shoe in the usual manner.

By first securing the rear member I of the lining to the rear portion of the vamp, and then ornamenting the parts while in this assembly and before the insertion of the box toe 9 and the toe member 3 of the lining, many variations in the ornamentation can be effected that cannot be readily accomplished where the ornamentation is performed after the entire vamp structure,'including the members 3 and I, has been assembled. Furthermore, the parts may be fabricated, according to the present method, with greater facility, speed and economy than by using the known method of ornamentation after the structure has been completed by the insertion of the box toe.

It is obvious that the structure and the method may be varied within the scope of equivalent limits without departing from the invention.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:-

1. The method of making a shoe vamp structure which comprises adhesively attaching arear vamp lining member to the inner surface of a vamp 'member, formingseries of perforations through said members and through said vamp member forwardly of said lining member, attaching a reinforcement to the inner surface of the vamp member in advance of said lining member, applying ornamental stitching through said vamp member and said lining member and through said vamp member and said reinforcement, securing a toe lining member to said rear lining member in a manner to form a smooth joint at the point of attachment, and then interposing and adhesively securing a box toe between the toe portion of the vamp member and the toe member of the lining.

2. In the method of making shoe uppers including two lining sections having corresponding bevelled edges, the steps of uniting an upper portion with one of said lining sections leaving the bevelled edge extending across the upper portion, securing an inelastic element to the part of the upper that is not covered by said lining section, performing design operations on the upper and said added elements, and finally adding a stiffener and the other lining section, the said other lining section being applied with its bevelled edge complementary to said bevelled edge of the first lining section whereby to obtain a smooth joint.

3. In the method of making shoe uppers including a lining composed of two sections having correspondingly bevelled edges, the steps of uniting an upper portion with one of said lining sections so as to leave the bevelled edge extending across the said upper portion, perforating the unit thus formed throughout the extent of the upper portion in a selected ornamental design, adding an inelastic member to the portion of the upper remaining unlined, performing design operations on the thus fabricated upper, uniting the bevelled edge of the second lining section with the bevelled edge of the first leaving the remaining part of said second section unattached, inserting a stiff-- ening element between the upper and the unattached portion of the lining, and uniting said stiffening element with the upper and the un- I attached portion of the lining.

4. In the method of making shoe uppers including an upper portion, and a lining in two i sections that have corresponding bevelled edges, the steps of uniting one lining section with the upper portion, and with the bevelled edge extending thereacross, perforating the upper portion and the said lining section, adding a stiffening element to the unlined part of the upper, applying ornamental stitching through the upper and the lining section and stiffening element, uniting the bevelled edge of the second lining section to the bevelled edge of the first one leaving the remainder of said second section unattached, inserting a stiffener between the stiffening element and the unattached part of the second lining section, and finally uniting the said unattached portion, the stiffener, and the stiffening element. 4

5. In the method of making shoe uppers, the steps of uniting an upper portion with a section of lining of lesser size than said upper portion, adding a reinforcing element to the unlined part of the upper portion, stitching the thus fabricated upper through said upper portion, lining sectionand reinforcing element, uniting an additional section of lining to said first lining section in a manner to form a smooth joint therewith and to leave a part of the second lining section free, inserting a stifiener between the free part of said second lining section and the upper portion, and finally uniting said stiffener with said upper portion and said free part of the second lining section.

CHARLES A. GREEN. 

